Yes, there are ways to do this. There are pluses and minuses to every method. The method shown keeps the original ignition/fork lock on the neck in place and maintains the fork lock function the way it always was. The downside is this will require a separate key that turns on your new ignition. Some, get the new ignition made keyed to match the original so both the neck, fork lock and ignition use only one key. This lets you avoid having to carry two small, different keys in your pocket. There are also full kits to order and you get all the components together at one time and ready for installation.
Some variances of installation will still require you have to have the specifically made tool to remove the actual ignition and, a new key position indicator washer thing because most get messed up during removal. And, like I said in Part 1, some folks just order new dash panels for Wide Glide models with the ignition point already installed. The list could go on and on. Go whichever route you would like. The option I’m describing requires little, if any, extra effort compared to all those other options. The best part is the cost is significantly less. Period. Do the research and figure which option suits your wallet. I’ll be just fine and comfortable carrying one tiny key for ignition and one for the fork locks.
If you are going the same route as me, there are other ways to mount the ignition to the dash as well. Some show they drilled the bolt holes right through the top of the dash and mount it directly onto the dash itself. A lot of others have been seen doing it similar to what I’m doing here, creating a mounting plate to use as a stand for the ignition. To be honest, bolting the ignition right onto the dash would have been easier but, also will create 4 more holes to seal against water and would have the top of the bolts visible right on the dash. If you’re cool with looking at four bolts around your ignition and want an easy assembly, by all means, go that route.
Pickin’ up right where we left off;
The next step is to take a sheet of paper and your dirty hands. Set the paper on top of the mounting area and press down, making an exact outline of your mounting surface. Make sure to press down where all the bolt holes are. Take your template and cut it out, set it on your aluminum, mark it and cut it all out. I used a drill for the bolt holes and put a bit of electrical tape around the outer edge to protect against sharp edges.
Once it’s all cut out, set it all up for mock-up.
Place some two sided or rolled up masking tape on the aluminum ignition plate you made. Put the dash back on in the correct position while holding the ignition unit in the cut out ignition hole. Once everything is in place, set the ignition unit down on top of the masking tape. It’s now in position for you to mark the holes for the ignition unit. Drill the holes out and mock up the new ignition stand using the bolts and screws etc. as shown in the pic.
Mock up everything again to ensure proper placement of the new ignition set up and start making measurements of how much wire you will need to add to the ignition wires. Don’t add too much extra wire because it will get crowded and messy under the dash real quick.
Make sure to get the wires lined up correctly to the correct posts of course. Then solder the wires back together. Do the heat shrink and wrap thing and you may need some extra electrical tape and/or tiny zip ties to hold the wires together neatly. Or, be a slob if your into that sorta thing, I don’t care…
Place in the grommet, add some dielectric grease to the end of the ignition and stick it all back together.
Check to make sure it works!
If you have any questions on anything just let me know or leave a comment and someone may chime in to help offer you a solution. This is a must-do mod for St. Bob owners. This is how things should have been from the start!
Peace, Grease and a Life of Ease,