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  • Featured Image H-D St. Bob Ignition Relocation; What Should Have Been, Part 2

    Yes, there are ways to do this. There are pluses and minuses to every method. The method shown keeps the original ignition/fork lock on the neck in place and maintains the fork lock function the way it always was. The downside is this will require a separate key that turns on your new ignition.  Some, get the new ignition made keyed to match the original so both the neck, fork lock and ignition use only one key. This lets you avoid having to carry two small, different keys in your pocket.  There are also full kits to order and you get all the components together at one time and ready for installation.

    Some variances of installation will still require you have to have the specifically made tool to remove the actual ignition and, a new key position indicator washer thing because most get messed up during removal. And, like I said in Part 1, some folks just order new dash panels for Wide Glide models with the ignition point already installed. The list could go on and on.  Go whichever route you would like. The option I’m describing requires little, if any, extra effort compared to all those other options. The best part is the cost is significantly less. Period. Do the research and figure which option suits your wallet. I’ll be just fine and comfortable carrying one tiny key for ignition and one for the fork locks.

    If you are going the same route as me, there are other ways to mount the ignition to the dash as well. Some show they drilled the bolt holes right through the top of the dash and mount it directly onto the dash itself. A lot of others have been seen doing it similar to what I’m doing here, creating a mounting plate to use as a stand for the ignition. To be honest, bolting the ignition right onto the dash would have been easier but, also will create 4 more holes to seal against water and would have the top of the bolts visible right on the dash. If you’re cool with looking at four bolts around your ignition and want an easy assembly, by all means, go that route.

    Pickin’ up right where we left off;

    9 template10 pattern trace

    The next step is to take a sheet of paper and your dirty hands. Set the paper on top of the mounting area and press down, making an exact outline of your mounting surface. Make sure to press down where all the bolt holes are. Take your template and cut it out, set it on your aluminum, mark it and cut it all out. I used a drill for the bolt holes and put a bit of electrical tape around the outer edge to protect against sharp edges.

    11 mock up

    Once it’s all cut out, set it all up for mock-up.

    12 prep for placement13 Mock up stand

    Place some two sided or rolled up masking tape on the aluminum ignition plate you made. Put the dash back on in the correct position while holding the ignition unit in the cut out ignition hole. Once everything is in place, set the ignition unit down on top of the masking tape. It’s now in position for you to mark the holes for the ignition unit. Drill the holes out and mock up the new ignition stand using the bolts and screws etc. as shown in the pic.

    14 Lengthen Wires

    Mock up everything again to ensure proper placement of the new ignition set up and start making measurements of how much wire you will need to add to the ignition wires. Don’t add too much extra wire because it will get crowded and messy under the dash real quick.

    15 Fitment

    Make sure to get the wires lined up correctly to the correct posts of course. Then solder the wires back together.  Do the heat shrink and wrap thing and you may need some extra electrical tape and/or tiny zip ties to hold the wires together neatly. Or, be a slob if your into that sorta thing, I don’t care…

    8 Grommet16 Dielectric

    Place in the grommet, add some dielectric grease to the end of the ignition and stick it all back together.

    18 Finished

    Check to make sure it works!

    19 check

    If you have any questions on anything just let me know or leave a comment and someone may chime in to help offer you a solution. This is a must-do mod for St. Bob owners. This is how things should have been from the start!

    Peace, Grease and a Life of Ease,


  • Featured Image H-D St. Bob Ignition Relocation, What Should Have Been; Part 1

    Anyone who has a Harley-Davidson Dyna St. Bob like my ’07, knows the pain in the ass it is to turn that sucker on! Yeah, it’s kinda nostalgic to have the ignition on the neck but, it soon gets tiring. Most Harley models have an  ignition on the top of the gas tank, on the dash portion. It’s nice, you can put in the key, turn it on, take the key out and have access to turn your hog on right in front of you and in hands reach. Basically its key-less from there unless you want to lock it.

    The St. Bob though, has the ignition is on the neck. This involves turning the bike on before you get on and you leave the key dangling from the ignition. Its a bit hard to fumble with the key when you have thick winter gloves on. And, you have to get off the bike to turn it off or lean over the tank and hope your jacket doesn’t scratch it in the process. I’d always hit the kill switch on the handlebar, get off the bike and take off my gloves, glasses, helmet etc and then forget the damn ignition. Even after riding this thing daily and for thousands of miles. For my birthday this year, all I wanted was a new ignition.

    If you are confident enough in your skills to locate the ignition wires (always have a manual for your model), cut and solder wire and cut through the dash on your expensive two wheeled mistress, then, this mod is for you. If you can’t confidently locate and solder a wire or, would simply not like to mess with it, you can always bring to the shop and let me do it for you!

    If your game to get it done, here is a picture tutorial on how I accomplished mine:

    A couple tools used:

    Metal snips, 2 inch diameter hole drill bit, 4 flat bottom screws and 12 nuts with 4 lock washers, a few inches of extra wire, wire heat shrink, a piece of paper for a template and a small sheet of aluminum. I used electrical tape and a few zip ties to keep the wires together and neat. I ordered my new black ignition from ebay.

    5 tools needed


    First, disconnect your battery then start taking your dash all the way apart. Basically disconnect every wire and take out the little neutral light indicator. It’s easy and pretty self explanatory.

    1 dash disasemble

    From there, you are going to have to pull the little plastic wire protector/deflector out to gain complete access to the ignition wires. You may have to loosen up your fuel tank to get your hand in there. The deflector is located under the gas tank, on the bottom of the frame backbone, on top of the front cylinder, by the bike’s neck….(didn’t get a pic, sorry) Anyway, once its removed you can pull most of the wires out from there, you may have to pull other wires out of the neck from the inserts on the neck by the ignition. Getting the wires out and back in are really the hardest part of this whole ordeal.

    2 wires pulled out

    Now, you will have to get your big fat hand inside the neck from the bottom, where you pulled out the plastic protector insert. The ignition wires are mounted onto the left side of the inner neck wall. It has a little tab they may hold it in place but, mine came out easy with a light tug.

    3 wire location 4 wire located


    Get the ignition wires pulled out and routed through the left side wire insert area on the neck. You will see the other sets of wires leading to the dash of your bike coming out of there. Your going to have to add some length to the wires in order to make this work.

    Before we add wire, we need something to measure and mock up to. So, get ready to cut your dash. I have seen others that mentioned that they purchased a dash for a Wide Glide and just hooked it all up to that. That is a couple hundred bucks I’m not going to spend when I can just cut a hole and insert a rubber grommet.

    There are three random raised lines in the center of your dash under the neutral indicator light bar. Find the center of the center line and mark it as your pilot hole spot. Take your 2 inch diameter hole drill bit and drill it out!

    6 Find the center 7 Cut hole

    I used a Dremel to sand down the sharp edges then put some electrical tape around the edge so not to scratch up my ignition during mock up because the rubber grommet had not arrived yet. I ordered a grommet from www.cableorganizer.com. I could not find one ANYWHERE! So, I picked out exactly what I needed online and had it delivered to my door. Cost about 5 bucks delivered. Make sure you order the grommet at 2 inches total diameter. Not 2′ inner diameter or the outside diameter will be too big. I used a 1/8 grommet width.

    8 Grommet

    This will keep you busy for a minute, check back for part two in just a few days.

    Peace, Grease and a Life of Ease,


  • Featured Image GA clay Intruder

    A loyal customer always brings me his bikes but, they are always in a crazy state of disrepair! Guess he doesnt bring me the bikes often enough… The current culprit is an ’01 Suzuki Intruder. This project needed some pics.

    I’ll start off by showing a weird phenomenon with this clients bikes. Same owner, two different bikes. The first pic with the green algae looking stuff is on a V Max. The next pic, with the Georgia clay looking stuff is the current bike, the intruder.


    bruce bike 7

    Now that we have set the base line. Here is the rest of the bike.

    bruce bike 5

    bruce bike 6

    bruce bike 2

    bruce bike 8

    It’s worn down and missing a few parts and bolts but, it runs right?

    The part that I am doing is fixing the hydraulic clutch master cylinder. Some of the rubber parts have degraded over time and the whole unit needs to be replaced. Then, maybe we wont have any more dirt in the unit!

    bruce bike 4

    behind this ugly thing is leaking like a sieve.

    bruce bike

    bruce bike 3

    Out with the old and in with the new. Now to convince him that he cant ride home on that rear tire…

    Peace, grease and a life of ease…


  • Featured Image SHINY SHOVEL

    Going to throw out some info real quick to give a quick update on my shovel project and show you how you can really bring some old aluminum back to life.

    Im polishing up the rocker boxes by hand. It takes time and elbow grease but its damn worth it and saves the roughly $200 to get them professionally polished.

    Go to your local auto parts store and get some wet to dry sandpaper. The grades I used were 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500 and 5000. Next, get some real good aluminum billet polish such as Mothers brand.

    rocker start


    as you can see, the rocker boxes are 34 years old. This crap wont come off with just a simple polish wheel, its in the metal.

    Start with the 600 grit, get it wet and start sanding.

    rocker first step


    This first sanding might get you scared a bit. Dont worry, just make sure you get a good even sanding. Keep going, stepping up the grades as you go.

    rocker box mid way

    The pic above is at roughly 2000 grit stage. As you can see, its getting better. Keep stepping up the grit until you get to at least 2500. Then I finish it off with 5000 for the real fine finish.

    rocker box finish


    Finally finish with the Mothers polish to bring out the shine. I was loosing light by the time I took this pic but as you can still see, its a whole lot better than the original.

    I only did the front part of this one rocker box. To really get the job done best, you should probably take the rocker box off the bike and get every nook. That will come next for me.

    What methods have you used to get a showcase shine on your old parts?